SHORT-SLEEVED KIRTLE

First out in the line of kirtles is my aubergine colored, shortsleeved wool kirtle. It’s constructed of the most basic geometrical shapes; rectangular panels, trapezium sleeves, triangular gores and square gussets. Dresses from the Viking Age are thought to have been loosly fitted to both enable moving and working in them, but also to dress and undress easily. The kirtle is sewn like the ‘Nockert Type 1’ kirtles, e.g. The Kragelund Man’s kirtle and the Skjoldehamn kirtle and based on the simple pattern I’ve drawn up below (downloadable PDF Vikingakjortel). Fabric width is 1,56 m and length 2,6 m which makes it possible to position the sleeves underneath the panels on the length of the fabric, since I don’t want neither a floor length kirtle nor full length sleeves. The rest of the width is used in its full length for the gores, which in this case are slimmed down for lesser volume.

VIking kirtle

Keyhole neckline decorated with a woolen lucet cord
Keyhole neckline decorated with a woolen lucet cord
Sleeves decorated with woolen lucet cords
Sleeves decorated with woolen lucet cords
Front gore in split front seam
Front gore in split front seam
Felled hem and seams
Felled hem and seams
Felled hem and seams
Felled hem and seams
Full view of kirtle
Full view of kirtle

Reference material:
Margareta Nockert – Bockstenmannen, Och Hans Dräkt. Halmstad och Varberg: Stiftelsen Hallands länsmuseer, 1985
Margrethe Hald – Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials tr. Jean Olsen. Copenhagen, 1980

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